Shield transfers

[martin goddard]

I am going to make some waterslide transfers for shields.
It will be through a laser printer.
Anyone else had a go at this??
Maybe they can advise.

martin

[Colonel Kilgore]

I think you may want to check first how fine a definition you can get on your printer, Martin.

I have a nice office-quality printer, but it's not really good enough for the detail that is ideally needed for flags or decals.

There might be a case for getting the printing done commercially?

Simon

[martin goddard]

Good  thought on quality.
I will do a couple of test prints.
The designs will ppabably be single image in black?


martin

[Colonel Kilgore]

Black could work well, particularly for Greek hoplites

There are a bunch of shield transfers out there already that I could point you to, if you wanted to save some effort?

Simon

[martin goddard]

I did have a look at them Simon but I wanted water slide ones. The other type wherin you wet the backing and deposit the transfer I have found trickier (used the skytrex ones).
I think i may have problems getting transfers to work well on rounded face shields.

It will be an interesting project (I hope).


martin

[Colonel Kilgore]

Martin,

Funny - I like the ones where you soak the paper (like the Airfix ones). Which I thought were actually the principal type of "waterslide", in fact?

I use a small saucer with a little water, and a paintbrush to move the decals across and then adjust them carefully in place.

The key is of course to then use Humbrol Decalfix or similar to make sure they stick and adjust to any irregular surface (should do so with domed shields, as they work on ridged tank surfaces?).

Simon

[martin goddard]

The Airfix ones are the traditional waterslide which is what I want.They even had the background the same size as the transfer. Most modern transfers need to be trimmed to size before use.

Using the skytrex ones you place the decal on the target with white backing paper still on top. By wetting the paper that paper can be removed leaving the decal on the target. Because under this method the decal is obscured by the paper it can be more difficult to get it in the right place.

martin

[Colonel Kilgore]

Thanks Martin, I get what you mean now!

The Battleground transfers are Airfix-like. I like them.

And I'm with you on the ones where you can't see the detail for the paper - who on earth thought that one up?!

Simon

[John Watson]

I have some Veni, Vidi, Vici shield transfers that are waterslide. No idea if they are still around though. Little Big Man are the paper backed type I think.
John

[John Watson]

Just checked. VVV are still in business producing decals (waterslide transfers).
John

[Colonel Kilgore]

Thanks for confirming what type VVV are, John. I'd thought as much but would have to think where I'd put mine to check...

I think when they first came out, there was only the one type of decal!

Simon

[Smoking gun]

I am going to make some waterslide transfers for shields.
It will be through a laser printer.
Anyone else had a go at this??
Maybe they can advise.

martin

I did this a few years ago. As I don't have a laser printer I took the paper and a .pdf of the design to a local office supply shop who printed the design for me. It worked well, I advise printing in the highest quality setting, photo? Following the normal practise for good decal application, gloss varnish first, use decal softening and setting solutions, and gloss followed by matt varnish to seal the decals.

Best wishes,
Martin from Grimsby

[martin goddard]

That is useful Martin. Thank you.
Especially when I have to print a whole A4 sheet at a time.

martin

[Smoking gun]

Martin,
Do you have to print a whole A4 sheet at a time? Most printers will have alternative sizes available, A5 and various photo sizes such as 6 x 4 ins or metric equivalent, you could cut your decal paper to suit.

Best wishes,
Martin from Grimsby

[martin goddard]

That is a fine money saving idea  Martin.
I will check my printer.

martin