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Author Topic: Road to nowhere  (Read 798 times)

martin goddard

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Road to nowhere
« on: October 27, 2020, 08:27:10 AM »
I expect we all use a lot of roads in our games.
I will keep this topic to 15mm roads, although do chip in with nay road related thoughts.

Here are some random thoughts on the roads I have used. Your roads?

1. Early on I made roads from card and painted them. Cheap, useful and very practical. I kept the width uniform/same/constant  br dragging a pair of dividers across card. That gives curves of uniform width.
70% satisfaction.

2. Bellona vacuum formed streams painted as roads.
Consistent width. Nice banking that could be decorated with scrub and hedge.
Expensive for a big road system.  Limited configurations due to available pieces.
50% satisfaction.

3. Painted roads. Painting roads direct onto cloth table. This is great and looks very realistic. It does however limit the games to that road pattern. Very affordable as cloth is quite cheap.
I have done about 6 PBI cloths like this but the newer editions don't allow wavy roads. I will complain to the writers. Also used on smaller cloths for demo games etc.
80% satisfaction

4.Adventure terrain roads. You may have seen these in  the rules books or in PPHQ photos. A set of linking resin roads. Really good, except the height gives problems when travelling over templates or underneath them. When laid down they don't shift about as they are joined.
80% satisfaction

5. Franks road. Frank is an internet supplier based in some far island home. Very good value. Good widths. Textured onto sheet rubber. can be trimmed to suit. He does rivers too. Downside, is that they need to be cared for , as constant bending and storing can cause finish to flake off.
Ideal if you have a nice long scenery box or play mainly at home.
60% satisfaction. 90% if always used at home.


6. Faller model railway roads.  I bought this  railway road. It is cobbled and in light grey. I think it will suffer if constantly rolled and stored. In a similar problem to Frank's.
It is expensive but looks wonderful (i.e. the little individual cobbles). It really only makes straight roads but does make nice long strips.
90% satisfaction for games where it is historically accurate.  e.g great for early war WW2 in Europe but rubbish in Malaya or ACW.



martin :)

John Watson

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2020, 09:12:57 AM »
Displaying my ability to acquire, store and regurgitate useless information.
Road to Nowhere is a song by a Scottish (I think) rock group called White Trash. It was one of the earliest releases on the the Beatles' Apple label. Didn't do much chart wise. The group later changed their name to Trash but had no better luck in the charts.

As for wargaming roads I have a few at home which are hardboard strips that have been painted and textured. They are rigid in all senses but cheap. I found a supply of rubberised black beer mats which I cut up for tarmac roads and these work well, by I've only managed to source a couple of feet of them so not good.

John

Colonel Kilgore

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2020, 09:35:09 AM »
For straight roads, I have some strips of woven material (came in a mat, advertised for hobby use) that do the job well for me.

Years ago I built a large set of modular boards based on cork tiles, with the roads painted on. These were a tad limited geometrically but looked great until all my grass flocking rubbed off...

I have recently invested in some Fat Frank roads for the Crete games, and these look good.

One pet hate of mine is seeing higgledy piggery roads on the table with gaps between sections. That really spoils my suspension of belief.  I find that a little strip of masking tape stuck across the underside of road sections works a treat.

Simon

Nick

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2020, 09:51:55 AM »
I started off with TSS tiles with roads already on them - aesthetically pleasing, but limited by roads always having to leave centre of each tile edge. Not a problem in lots of games, but became limiting with gridded rulesets. Still have the tiles but rarely use them.
Now I generally use road sections bought from S&A scenics. A lot more flexibility in road layout. Only minor disadvantage can be keeping them in place without gaps appearing.

Nick

pbeccas (Paul)

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2020, 11:14:46 AM »
Most of my roads are from Miniature World Maker.  They are rubber latex stuff and pre-painted.  I have also got some of the Gale Force 9 modern roads.

Leslie BT

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2020, 01:57:07 PM »
I have rubber latex stuff for 15mm.
I have some fabric stuff ones for 28mm.
I have some MDF ones for 54mm.
I some terrain, polystrene, with some roads build in for 54mm.

Big Mike

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2020, 02:03:31 PM »
I use rubberised cobbles-street roads for European urban settings and I find them easy to paint and then overpaint, such as adding some snow/mud/ green edging.
When I need mass production for a big game I use roofing felt. This is the sanded, slightly tarry stuff that costs around £30 for 10m X 1m roll. It is easy to cut and just a light coat of sealant gives a quick Tarmac road. The reverse can be painted in a suitable rural colour.
Very Long sections can easily be rolled up for storage. Applying too much added scenic material will cause it crack and flake unless stored flat but it can be easily recycled from Western Desert to Ardennes snow.
Each 1foot section costs me 5p plus paint etc.
Mike

Wardy64

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2020, 03:07:44 PM »
Have quite a bit Flames of War which I really like. Got some of Franks, they are ok, but a lot cheaper than FOW.

Dave

Radar

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2020, 03:25:14 PM »
Fat Frank's roads and rivers. I got them  a RUB to store them flat as they do tend to take on any bends if stored on top of anything. No flaking. Excellent

Smiley Miley 66

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2020, 05:12:51 PM »
Like Dave I ve bought a few FoW roads I do like them very durable. A touch too wide for out of town games ?
I ve made my own over the years mainly cut offs from doing templates in MDF etc. Quite satisfied, but you have to have many bits to suit all sorts of tables. Made easier these days for PBI as Martin says only Straight roads needed.
I ve also used a boat decking(speedboats) I believe as being a bin man can be handy picking up waste materials. But scale wise, quite thick and quite bulky and heavy. But makes great highways etc.
Some of the MDF roads that some of these building manufacturers look impressive for a town situation.
But it’s the country type roads are the big problem ?
Maybe Martin could come up with a scale width for country roads ? And town roads ? That would cover most games or even put “road widths” in the terrain part of the rules ?
Or for now a quick guide on here for us to follow ?
I never know what would be an acceptable road width for a particular game ?
Miles

martin goddard

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2020, 05:39:22 PM »
Yes, i like that idea Miles.

martin :)

Stewart 46A

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2020, 06:39:31 PM »
Most of my roads are by fat frank but I also have a few from tinywargames, these can b3 a bit wide for 15mm but come in 6ft lengths.


Stewart

Matías

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #12 on: October 27, 2020, 09:42:05 PM »
Like most of my terrain I do the roads myself. For earth roads I start with a stretched piece of canvas, to which I apply Acrylic caulk, then glue sand and cut to size. Then paint and flock the sides. They have the advantage that are flexible and you can create whatever shape you want.
I'm planing on doing some Metalled Roads with pieces of mdf inspired by John Bond in one of his blogs.

Leman

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Re: Road to nowhere
« Reply #13 on: October 29, 2020, 07:06:34 AM »
Best roads I have ever had were rubber from Old Glory. Ruts, hoof prints etc and very narrow grass verge. Took wash and dry brush really well. Sadly haven't been available for years, but mine have never needed repaonting after 30 years of service.

Ben Waterhouse

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