For some reason I've always put off doing Head Swaps as I tend to be all fingers and thumbs when it comes to these things.
Fortunately Les gave me a very quick demo today at the Weekender. So with my new found skills I found an ideal project to cut my teeth on....adding some variety to the ACW dismounted figures by swapping hats for forage caps.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2v7yy4x.jpg)
I'd already started painting them but not enough to matter. I'll touch these up tomorrow. Really pleased with my efforts! Thanks Les!
Well done Sean - these look nice.
I found that taking the initial plunge was the hardest part - after that it's just proceeding carefully.
And the odd finger with a hole or cut in it mends soon enough!
Yes hobbying in the past has led to many an injury but I managed to avoid serious injury last night. Looking forward to trying a few more swaps now - in particularly some bareheads.
I used some of the bare heads on my VC. Probably due to the smaller size of the Vietnamese, these looked a little big on them. Will be interested to see how they look on "Western" figures.
Just a query on basing, Sean: are yours in the photos below temporary for handling during painting, or the permanent bases? If the latter, any reason you've not done the terrain (sand / filler etc) before painting the figures (as I've found this much easier to do without having to be careful not to ruin the figures' paint job...)?
Just curious.
It is daunting doing head swaps, and being hamfisted, pretty bloody at times but it's worth it.
Here are some Roger's Rangers I head swapped from British light infantry (bobs) in caps
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/alanmillicheap/French%20Indians%20Wars/PAW%202013/paw1332_zps2e44cb02.jpg)
My Holy Grail is to find suitable bodies for the WW1 US Doughboy hat so I can do Pershing's Mexican Expedition
Alan
Well they all turned out very nicely - you've clearly got the nack!
And the blood washes off lead pretty easily, I've found :)
To be honest Simon, I've just always done it like that. I tend to stick the figures to the base with No Nails adhesive, spray in the predominant colour, add detail then use Army Painter dip which I paint on. I do some times use GW washes as the mood takes.
As for the basing again I change my mind all the time. I quite like the Army Painter brown brown basing flock with a few bits of grit added in. So figures are painted I'll brush PVA glue on to the base, dip it in the flock and leave to dry. I'll then go back and do a light dry brush with a cream colour before adding static grass.
I've also used Basetex and also plain old sand in the past. Never had much of a problem with over spill onto the painted figure. But then as I get older I get less fussy with my painting. I used to paint all my figures in the Dallimore style of base coat and 2 highlights but then realised I never finish armies. Since finding Army Pianter. I've painted dozens of armies!
I'll continue to experiment and change my mind on a regular basis! Les was a font of knowledge over the weekend with numerous tips, not just on head swaps 😀
Lovely Rogers Rangers too!
Headswaps really do make a difference and add great variety.
Sean its good to pass on some of these ideas, some will stick. Its all about exploring different techniques etc until you find the ones you like.
Though seemingly daunting, a pair of snippers and a pin vice will carry you far. Headswapping piggy figures is something I'm rather fond of. Really extends the utility of the moderns and ww2 partisan options.
Agreed. I'm itching to do more. I've just finished the ACW dismounted cavalry. Just need vanishing and then I'll post another picture.
I have recently discovered there is a variation of figure sizes within the AK47 Modern Africa range. Therefore, I will have to resort to head swaps to create my Rhodesian forces.
The video below is, I think, a fairly good resource on the subject. I would be very grateful for any further hints, tips, or refinements of this arcane art from the more experienced members of this forum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aovqtjzHLUI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aovqtjzHLUI)
Mike,
There are a couple of threads on head-swapping with the combined wisdom of some folk from this Forum here:
https://rulesforcommonman.uk/smf/index.php?topic=276.msg1425#msg1425
and here:
https://rulesforcommonman.uk/smf/index.php?topic=220.msg1073#msg1073
They just about cover it for me [having just gone through the madness of swapping a load of heads to make sure that every figure in my not-too-far-from-being finished-now Cattlemen force is unique...].
I know all you guys have done a thousand and one head swaps, but I still feel compelled to post a photo of my first attempt. Time taken approx 25 minutes. I am sure things will speed up with future attempts.
PP Professional becomes 32 Battalion or Rhodesian.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hs52vQp.jpg)
Looks groovy. We need to see the figure after the paint job too!!
Mike looking good, you will get quicker the more you do.
Like Martin looking forward to seeing the figures painted.
About to start a head swap on some BEF infantry, and have just received some uhlan heads to use on the old style uhlans.
Today's casualties: 1 x mini drill piece and 2 x figures completely destroyed.
:(
Quote from: Mike Tanner on July 31, 2018, 06:43:01 PM
Today's casualties: 1 x mini drill piece and 2 x figures completely destroyed.
Oh dear - that's a heavy toll. Do you still have all your fingers?
And were you using an electric drill, or a pin vice?
Quote from: Colonel Kilgore on July 31, 2018, 11:15:20 PM
Quote from: Mike Tanner on July 31, 2018, 06:43:01 PM
Today's casualties: 1 x mini drill piece and 2 x figures completely destroyed.
Oh dear - that's a heavy toll. Do you still have all your fingers?
And were you using an electric drill, or a pin vice?
I was using a pin vice. Everything was going fine until I broke the smallest drill bit I was using. I should have stopped then and waited until I got hold of a replacement. It was also exceptionally hot here yesterday which didn't help my concentration.
Let's make that better.
Next time you order Mike, let us know which figures died and we will send replacements.
Quote from: martin goddard on August 01, 2018, 09:27:14 AM
Let's make that better.
Next time you order Mike, let us know which figures died and we will send replacements.
Thank you very much, Martin. :)
Excellent service for you Mike, good job it was a figure and not a finger. Martin will take a little longer to make one of those for replacement.
Head swaps do carry a slight risk. To mix things up I ordered some brigadiers from TSS, only to find some of them had Tin helmets, so off with his head for a PP peaked cap. Unfortunately I had started to drill in the iron place so the head looked decidedly strange. Fortunately there was another in the same pose so my second attempt was much more successful.
Wrapping the figure in blutack before you start drilling really helps too. Figure doesn't slip in your grip, plus it is a lot comfier to hold onto (especially if you are drilling a number of figures).
I always find after drilling the hole and dry fitting the head etc. I put a bit of Squadron (green filler) into the hole as it mixes up with super glue quite nicely. I'am talking a little dab of filler, the very tip of an old knife blade, or the tip of a cocktail stick. Makes the super bond easier as well. Also liquid cement brushed over after fills in the neck area. Its a good way to clean the excess super glue and filler.
Put a very very small tilt to the head as well, it added character to your figure.
Some excellent tips there -thanks.
As I can't find the drill bits I had and have recently purchased a new pin vice to replace the one that also disappeared what size is everyone using when doing head swaps?
The smallest I have - I think it's a 0.8mm.
I also file down the head spigot to a point - helps it go in more easily and allows some "wriggle room" for variation / character.
Drill size. I recommend a 1mm or bigger so that the head spigot "falls" into the hole. A small pice of milliput or similar makes a good grounding/fit.
Yes I use imm or a little larger.
By using a slightly larger drill to create an oversized hole it allows the head to sit down and as Martin says allows you to pose the head and get a bit of putty in the hole.
Also use a new bit, if it breaks it means that it is blunt!
These are good value £1.15 for ten. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/HSS+Drill+Bits/sd1250/Draper+HSS+Jobber+Metric+Drill+Bit/p21963
Think I have a slight addiction with headswapping... Currently working on a Scots Covenator cavalry unit. Command made with headswapping, no problem. But then I needed a suitable casualty marker - and the dead harquebusier just wouldn't cut it. So, yes you guessed it - headswap. Here he is in the raw. I must point out that no blood was spilled, and I still have the correct quota of body parts. (It was a little iffy getting the original head off.)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9b37Qc8ndxI/W3Mte2CMQtI/AAAAAAAAAzk/brGjUkqc9IcuAbzjDv-xllPr7XvHeEo_QCLcBGAs/s1600/20180814_202116.jpg)
That looks like a particularly nifty job. :)
That is dedication to the cause!
Very difficult getting a head of a dead figure! Bravo, salutations.
Thanks x 3
Not really dedicated, slightly obsessive I'd say. ;)
Thanks all I'll pick a variety up and give it a go.
If your going to do the job right.
Other wise you get people going to say great army ! But why has he used a WW2 German as dead ? For example ! So a simple head change does the job.
Quote from: Mike Tanner on May 14, 2018, 05:00:29 PM
I know all you guys have done a thousand and one head swaps, but I still feel compelled to post a photo of my first attempt. Time taken approx 25 minutes. I am sure things will speed up with future attempts.
PP Professional becomes 32 Battalion or Rhodesian.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hs52vQp.jpg)
I did the same head swap for my RLI, although being quite anal I filed down the cap peak to flatten it and filled in the dovetail on the neck flap giving it more of a Rhodesian look and less Portuguese :o
Below are a few of my RLI soldiers. They are still very much a work in progress. I base coated with Vallejo beige. The green is Uniform Green and the brown is English Uniform/Flat Red with a mix of 3/1. Hopefully after I add the Citadel Agrax Earthshade the camouflage pattern will look better.
I wanted some guys in shorts hence some non PP figures in the unit. I also have not painted the rifles camo. I am going for an interim period before the RLI were ordered to stop wearing shorts, etc. My Rhodesian African Rifles and any paratroopers will be 100% Peter Pig.
How do you feel about painting the edges of the bases with different colours to help with stick recognition on the battlefield?
I will also have to knock up some stick commanders with radios. I intend using greenstuff for the radios and fuse wire I bought from the UK as antennas. The PP figures will be easier as I can just drill a hole in the backpacks and glue the antenna in.
(https://i.imgur.com/Poxk3z1.jpg)
Looks good, Have you tried the PP professionals in shorts? I did a head swap and they look pretty good. For the stick leaders I just used the professional leaders, since they will be used as both SAS and RLI.
They look pretty good to me as is. I know next to nothing about this period. Who were they up against.
For anyone reading this, who is still putting it off: my 12 year old did a headswap for me. ECW officer in helmet (tricky to take his head off as his helmet gives quite a thick 'neck' onto the body), given a helmet with open visor.
He said it was easy.
Quote from: Leman on August 19, 2018, 03:27:43 PM
They look pretty good to me as is. I know next to nothing about this period. Who were they up against.
The Rhodesians were up against ZANLA and ZIPRA. ZANLA was apparently the least well trained but most active guerrilla force. ZIPRA training was inclined more towards main force conventional operations. Google is your friend in this matter.
:)
Thanks.
Was inspired by the head swap casualty figure, so had a go last night at a WWI jaeger casualty. Bit of deft, but very careful, work with the Stanley knife gave me a very acceptable jaeger casualty.
Well done. Any blood lost?
Some casualty figures lend themselves to headswaps, some I wouldn't even bother attempting. Just too awkward.
I found it fairly straightforward, but the chance of blood/digit loss is high. Slowly and carefully is the mantra. (Feel I have an obligation to say "be careful doing casualty headswaps", in the same way that broadcasters have to say "please, drink responsibly")
No blood lost. I always cut away from my body. I found this very easy once the original head was removed, as there is no need to drill for a prone casualty - just glue the neck base and one side of the head to the figure base. I'll try and get a photo up later.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/43436714774_49575d0642_z.jpg)
He's either kopped it or he's listening for the approaching stagecoach.
Looks good
And there's more:
Gott in Himmel, what's just happened to Gunther?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/42350459620_3b0cbcf35b_z.jpg)
Eyes on me, boys! We need to reach their lines!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1838/44110586182_2ef0e70b5c_z.jpg)
Scheisse! the belt has jammed, leutenant!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1880/44110584882_2b919c6b68_z.jpg)
These conversion all look great well worth the effort.
Leman....
Hiwnyou paint faces reminds me of how I used to try on my first Pig figures. I think I'm going to copy you if that alright 😀
It's the dab method:
* Black or brown base coat
* The dab method - nose, chin, cheekbones, lower jaw, ears, back of the neck (if visible). I use Vallejo base flesh, then a wash of Citadel Reikland Flesh. Currently not highlighting as I think being in battle the men would be flushed and probably a bit dirty, as well as being tanned being outdoors for much of the day.
Very nice looking figures. I will be giving your advice on face painting a go very soon when I have finished the current batch of figures.
Quote from: Rakkasan on August 19, 2018, 03:13:14 PM
Looks good, Have you tried the PP professionals in shorts? I did a head swap and they look pretty good. For the stick leaders I just used the professional leaders, since they will be used as both SAS and RLI.
I have packs of PP professionals in shorts and they will certainly be joining the fray, probably as police.
:)
I Love doing head swaps. Okay I mostly do Post Apocalyptic games, Zombie, Plaque, Most Aftermath stuff. using Rebel Minis "Police" which you do get a large number of figures (22) in seven poses, so what do you do with the extra sets you do HEAD SWAPS!
So I had a need or a want for State Troopers, using a set of "WWI Dough Boy" heads with the campaign hats. loop off some heads a little hand drilling.
Rebel Minis on the Right and the head swap on the Left.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-on8Et9j3yho/V7Od3GwkhtI/AAAAAAAABcI/ZhY22_vkDoIdQ8GGGQyRiKxOy9GymL-yACLcB/s1600/102_1363.jpg)
Now I have nice set of State Troopers from the wonderful state of Minnesota.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NH2dJX2EkRk/V-c_6R0YU1I/AAAAAAAABeE/y8LMQeIEMH8Mjayo01VG-TuXIeP4Zz0dwCLcB/s1600/102_1460.jpg)
I am currently working on their Patrol Cars, and the other set will be made into National Park Police with PP "Ball Cap" heads, and other Law Enforecement Officers
Looks very good. Makes me think it should be possible to produce a Pershing force for Mexico if the appropriate bodies can be identified.
Nice work War Monkey and welcome to the forum!
Leman;
QuoteLooks very good. Makes me think it should be possible to produce a Pershing force for Mexico if the appropriate bodies can be identified.
Eureka Miniatures has 1941 U.S. Cavalry mounted and dismounted wearing early war pan helmets might be a good place to start
https://eurekaminusa.com/collections/world-war-ii-15mm-u-s-cavalry-1941 (https://eurekaminusa.com/collections/world-war-ii-15mm-u-s-cavalry-1941)
Thank You all.
@Warmonkey - excellent work
Quote from: Leman on October 05, 2018, 08:32:12 AM
Looks very good. Makes me think it should be possible to produce a Pershing force for Mexico if the appropriate bodies can be identified.
That's my Quest for the Holy Grail
Considering the simplicity of the uniform for Pershing's troops it should be easy to find a match
Here's a useful site http://www.curtrich.com/WildBunchForDummies_ch6.html (http://www.curtrich.com/WildBunchForDummies_ch6.html)
but ...
I've head-swapped the Montana hats with Wild West US Cavalry, various Spanish Civil War figures and WW1 British - but nothing looks right
If anyone has any suggestions they would be appreciated
Alan
Having checked things out one of the major problems is leg wear. The US western cavalry have boots and the WWI British and many of the SCW figures have puttees. Those gaiters are a difficulty. However - I then came across the QRF Spanish-American War figures and Irregular's Boxer Rebellion US Marines.
@Leman - I've got a couple of packs of the QRF Span-Am troops that did look right. Unfortunately eyesight problems have stopped me from doing head swaps. I might look at milliputing the slouch hats though.
In my dreams Peter Pig would save me the bother by producing the actual figures - a foot pack, a mounted pack and a command pack with both foot and mounted officers :)
Worth looking at for a bit of south of the border action. However, the SB Army Book does cater for the SAW with some scenarios in the rule book.
Quote from: Rakkasan on August 19, 2018, 11:19:27 AM
Quote from: Mike Tanner on May 14, 2018, 05:00:29 PM
I know all you guys have done a thousand and one head swaps, but I still feel compelled to post a photo of my first attempt. Time taken approx 25 minutes. I am sure things will speed up with future attempts.
PP Professional becomes 32 Battalion or Rhodesian.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hs52vQp.jpg)
I did the same head swap for my RLI, although being quite anal I filed down the cap peak to flatten it and filled in the dovetail on the neck flap giving it more of a Rhodesian look and less Portuguese :o
Thank you for your advice regarding Rhodesian headdress Rakkasan, I am now filing down the the caps of my Rhodesian troopies. However, an old photograph gives me a little historical wriggle room for my original figures.
;)
(https://i.imgur.com/EYdJMRb.jpg)
http://www.newrhodesian.ca/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=16&start=470 (http://www.newrhodesian.ca/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=16&start=470)
That's a well executed swap Mike (no pun intended). You are right, it does speed up with practice and the results are worth the extra effort.