I've studiously avoided armies that use Pikes until recently.
Pikes introduce a lot of difficulties for modelling, storage, transport and gaming.
Then there's the "need deeper bases", or ridiculous game situations where the pikes point over the heads of the enemy "in contact".
Grumble concluded - looking ahead.
Cast on ones inevitably get a bend at some point in their career, from droppage, rough handling to faceplanting on a steep downslope.
Glued on wire ones look better, but their application seems like a form of witchcraft to this long-sighted fiftysomething.
I recently received a suggestion to remove and drill-out a bunch of long spears and thought "Life really is too short".
Having avoided Pikes for over 4 decades, I've drifted into an interest (Dragon Rampant, 16th century age of discovery) where Pikes were quite a thing.
The Japanese are wielding long Yari(s), the Italian Wars are n progress, and the new fangled firearms are developing methods to stay safe while they reload.
So this pike-dodger needs to get on board.
Can the board point me at collective wisdom on handling pike troops without going completely nuts.
I use wire pikes in order to avoid the twisted spaghetti scenario (of cast on pikes). I get mine from Donnington Miniatures - pack EQ10. iirc they are tucked away in 'new' then 'equipment'.
No help in basing tips I'm afraid as I steadfastly refused to follow rules conventions and base how I want them (I've tried to make my ECW foot regiments look like the representations in Streeter's Naseby Plan). So I base 4 pikeman's on a 40mm X 15mm base then lots of strips of 4 figures go on a movement base. Not had any problems of falling over.
Storage is an issue, I only use vertical pikes in order to make life easier.
Thanks Radar, I must say I'm intimidated at the prospect of gluing pikes on.
(Did I mention my severe long sight that makes close work a real challenge).
As for drilling hands to replace cast on pikes - i can't imagine my or the figure's hands surviving such an operation.
Are there any illustrated or video "How to" tutorials anywhere?
I struggle with stuff really close to, too.
Drilling hands is daunting. But it isn't as bad as you think it may be, I've done quite a few Scots lowland pikes (the only PP pike pack not available open handed).
My tips - take it slow, use good quality sharp drill bits, use a big blob of blu-tack to hold the figure (stops it moving, saves fingers getting drilled and makes it easier to hold figures), pilot holes are a big help (I've found that a good thick needle is best), yes you might kill a couple of figures working out how to do it so accept that you won't get 100% success from the get go (once you have done a few your success rate will go through the roof).
Also consider 'c' shaped hands to hold pikes, they don't have to be 'o' hands. 'c' shaped hands are actually easier to fit weapons to (that's how PP open handed figures are). I paint my figures and pikes separately: I make sausages from blu-tack, stick the pike point first into them, paint the shafts chestnut brown. I use superglue (applied with a cocktail stick to both the hand and the base where the pike will sit) to glue them to the based figures, finally touching up the chestnut brown before painting pike heads.
I have seen various people who use plastic brush bristles instead of metal pikes. Those have a lot of flex and so you don't end up with bendy pikes. It's either those or the steel wire which just does not bend IMO if I was to do it again. The problem with either option is making the point look right.
I have a load of essex 15mm pikes and I would not recommend them. Very bendy over time. :(
Old Glory 25s require hands to be drilled to take wire pikes - once in they tend to stay put and don't bend. Not sure how feasible this is with smaller figures. I do find that even with a strong superglue after two or three outings they tend to spring off.
It all depends on the direction of the pikes, if they are vertical then they can be drilled through the hand and on into the base which will give them a very good attachment. Horizontal pikes are a bit more fragile, but also a bit difficult to play with on the table.
Only use vertical pikes, think I have had one detachment out of about 600. Good sized surface to glue on, on the hand and base.
What colour(s) is/are everyone using for pike shafts (and paint manufacturer)?
Coat d'Arms 'chestnut brown', which is the same colour I use for muskets. Not to be confused with 'horse tone chestnut'
I have used Coat d'Arms sandy / khaki colours in the past (sorry - I don't have the codes to hand) as I concluded from re-enactor photos that new spears pikestaffs can be quite light-coloured).
Mix of the three....
1) Citadel Death World Forest (or Vallejo Brown Violet) with Citadel Tallarn Sand highlight (or Vallejo Khaki Grey)
2) Citadel Zandri Dust (or Vallejo Khaki Grey) with Citadel Kharak Stone highlight (Vallejo German Camo Beige)
3) Citadel Doombull Brown (or Vallejo Flat Earth) with Vallejo Beige Brown highlight
Death World Forest has to be the best name for a colour ever. I shall have to buy some.
Thanks for the info FW. I have those colours in my paint box, but never thought to use them for pikes.